I guess you can call me a hard-core pro staff. Willing to help those who are willing to help themselves. Iwill fish to whatever the circumstance require. Weather I fly fish or gear fish I hold no prejudices to anyone as long as its with ethics. When I do a review its with honesty and without prejudice.
I hesitated to go with the temperature being at -5 this morning at the house. I promised though to take my buddy who has never landed a steelhead. This will be his third year trying. With three layers of clothing, neck warmer, and wool hat we decided to go later in the day. I arrived at his home around 8:30 at – 4 degree and took our time driving. I hate ice. On our travels, it was a good call to go slow as we saw a spin out of two vehicles on the opposite side of the highway. Finally arriving at the river around 10 am it was only minus 1. I really wanted Randy to get his first steelhead so I set up his gear and showed him how to position the Steelybead bead and tie on the ghost shrimp. After two miss casts, he lost his shrimp so he came out of the river to regear. I was already set up and he wanted to tie on the shrimp himself so he said to go in. You don’t have to tell me twice. In I go casting. I make the cast watching the float as its indicating my pencil weight was tapping the bottom. Halfway through the drift the float dove under and I set the hook. I felt nothing but the head of the shrimp was gone. I looked at Randy and he was still tying up his set up. I said there is one there for you but he said go ahead he wasn’t ready. I made sure the float drifted in the same zone. All tensed I made sure I picked up the slack and the float didn’t disappoint me as it dove again under water.
With full force, I set the hook and she was a beautiful doe that broke the surface of the river. I brought the Lucky Strike Bait Works rubber net this time so the catch and release steelheads would be in good shape to survive another day. We landed it safely. Randy was ready to go in and made the perfect cast. I guide his drift to the same zone where I got the hit. The same thing happens to him. He had a bite but only the tail was left so oozing guts and told him to throw it back in. It was a good call as he hooked into a big summer run doe.We safley landed it.
Turned out to be a fantastic day as we hooked into 6 and landed them all safely with the rubber net. His smile was all my reward other than he could not stop talking with excitement. This is why I love being a mentor.
The gear used Amundson Outdoors Kudos Casting rod, 10mm Steelybeads, Ghost Shrimps, Lucky Strike Bait rubber net, and # 4 egg hook.
I have always been amazed at the fluid motions the Spey anglers achieve with very little effort in their cast. This technique origin in the history books developed in 1880 originating from England. That, of course, is another amazing story.
Often I am in a situation where I can’t back cast to obtain the distance I require in targeting the salmon. Spey casting and its many casting techniques allow the angler to obtain a long forward casting distance without worry of the structure behind them.
I am proficient with the single hand fly-fishing rods and this would be a great challenge to expand my ability.
My targets were salmon and steelheads. From the small Pink salmon to the power house Chinook and chum salmons. I felt I needed a rod with a strong backbone to handle the Chinook salmon, Chum salmon and the Coho salmon. I have caught these brutes in the past with a single hand rod and I felt a 9wt was more appropriated for me. I didn’t want to extend the fight longer than needed, which would occur with a lighter weight rod as I was catching and releasing.
After talking to various veteran Spey anglers who graciously shared their own individual techniques. Each angler was different. They had evolved their own system and customized their line set up that produced the best cast for themselves.
It is very confusing on how to complete this set up. There is alot of videos available on the web that helped with various casting techniques. The vast amount of information on running lines, sink or float and many different kinds of shooting heads and sinking tips. I still found it difficult to zone in on what I wanted to achieve with my limited ability and what various tackle to acquire.
It is easy to get confused with all the various lines and techniques. The first difference is your main line, floating and/or sinking lines. I knew from experience with a single-hand fly rod it was easier to learn using a floating line. They were easier to lift off the water, easier to mend and also to cast.
I wanted a floating line with an ability to add various sinking speed tips for the various flow speed and depths I needed to get to my targets. It also would have to handle the big salmon flies weighted or not weighted.
There are two different types of casting lines, one being the Skagit casting line. It was developed near the Skagit River in Washington State. The Skagit casting is fairly short and a heavy line that is good for casting large flies in big sections of the river. Another is called the Scandi casting line. The Scandi is short for Scandinavia where it was developed. It’s a type of Spey casting that generally uses lines that are a little longer and a little ‘thinner’ than Skagit casting, and it’s more appropriate with smaller flies.
One of the largest fly line manufacturers has a site that actually will balance out all the various weighted lines, running lines, shooting heads and sinking tapers. It starts with what is your target. For me, it is only for salmon. The size of the rivers and distance I want to achieve in my cast. Throwing large weighted salmon flies was important. The length and line weight of your rod combined with your ability. I know I will eventually evolve and have my own combination but this is a solid way to start for a novice.
I settled on the manufactures recommendations 30 pound Dacron backing, Powerflex max .035, 100 -foot float shooting line, Skagit floating shooting head 625-gr 20 foot and a sinking Skagit MOW T11 10 foot sinking tip.
Depending on the river flow speed and depth the angler should carry an assortment of sinking speed tips. These sinking tips are measured by how fast or how many inches per second they sink.
Once I had the combinations of lines it was time to focus on the reel. I noticed if any reel had the name SPEY on it was very expensive.
What I knew from fly-fishing a single hand rod was that the reel was to be aluminium, sealed bearings, and most important disc brakes to handle the powerful run the large fish can place on your reel. A veteran Spey angler said I should research for a single hand reel with those specs and choose a reel two sizes larger than the weighted line I was going to use. I settled on a single hand fly reel for 11 wt. the line that loaded all the lines with a little space left over.
My leader started with 20-pound mono, then dropped to 15 pound and then to 12 pound allowing easier break offs if required without risking the loss or damage to the fly lines. Clear shallow waters required long leaders. High silted waters required shorter leaders to reach your target.
For flies, I selected salmon cone head tube flies as I could easily change up flies without changing leaders. Another selection was marabou flies weighted and un-weighted. The un-weighted flies would allow me to fish the shallows without snagging up.
There is a lot to learn with the different types of casting. I was told to stay with the basic D casting. I needed to learn to cast left or right side to be able to cover the various accesses. The modern-day social media allows an angler to watch many various pros showing, instructing how to handle the two-handed Spey rod. I started mimicking the movement in a grassy field. After lots of practice, I venture to the water just to practice so no hook that brought some attention to onlookers.
My first river to cover was the Cowichan River on Vancouver Island. With a drift boat, there is a lot of beaches and different water flows an angler can approach and cover. The river that day proved that I needed to have a larger selection of sinking speed tips. As a right-hander, I just loved the way the line shoots out. I needed to improve my left side casting techniques though. I found my synchronization flow off my cast was off on the left side.
The next river I covered was the Campbell River for Pink Salmon. I ventured to the fly zone only and spent 5 hours of delight catching Pink salmon. This river flowed from my left to my right. Perfect for the right-hander.
Next adventure came from the Puntledge River for the Chum salmon. Now, this was challenging as the river flowed from my right to my left. Casting from the left was difficult. After 2 hours I was going to give up but a fine gentleman from Scotland was casting a Spey rod also and approached me. He offered some guidance and that’s all I needed. I eventually got that technique and started to throw excellent casts. Mending the line I reached an area were a few fresh chums were laying and bam I had my first silver chum salmon on. I laughed when my daughter caught her first coho. Well, she would have had laughed at me as I screamed with excitement just like her.
I have now caught Pinks and chum salmon on my bucket list. Next season will be for the spring salmon and the Coho salmon.
As it is said to practice makes perfect and so begins my own development to the world of Spey fly-fishing
Today is a special day in many ways. I haven’t fished with Adam my eldest on a river for 10 years. He got his Christmas present early and a nice pair of waders.
We arrived at the river around 7: 30. Two other anglers already took up the first fishing hole we were going to cover. I felt disappointed, as this is where I have had most of the luck. We watch them for a while and then decided to move to the next hole.
Reaching the secound hole I reviewed with Adam how to handle the level wind and control the drift. Just like riding a bike he didn’t miss a beat. I set his gear up the same as mine with a 10mm steelybead pegged 1 1/2 inch above a ghost shrimp using a #4 hook.
I showed him the technique on using the ghost shrimp and he was off to make the first cast. As I started to put my rod together he is screaming He has a fish on. Sure enough his rod is dancing back and forth. I drop everything I was doing and go to help land the steelhead. Alas the line broke and after retrieving his gear I suspected there must have been a nick in the line to weaken it. I re set him up with weight, leader, bead and ghost shrimp. I told him to cover the same area on the next drift. I am off to set up my rod. Halfway there he screams I have another. After a great fight we were able to land his first steelhead. I took lots of photos of action and secured the hatchery. I re set his gear and watched how he tied up the ghost shrimp. Then a left him a bag with a dozen so at least I might have a chance to get a cast in.
I finally get set up and make my first cast. The float approaches near the tail out goes down and I set the hook hard. Out came this huge hatchery buck and the fight is on. Adam comes down to take his share in photos. Finally I said I would get a photo of me in action. Great fight and I was able to land him.
We get numerous hits and misses during the next hour. Finally though I tag one perfect and landed my secound hatchery. The down side I got cocky and decide to take a photo while he was lying subdued in the water near shore. He suckered me thinking he was tired. With two big flips he tossed the hook and was off to the deep. That was 9am and I would have been done for fishing. Adam laughed and said I di it on purpose so I could fish longer. Not to happy with myself we continued fishing this hole. Adam finally tags into his secound steelhead and lands perfect on his own while dad taking all the photos he can. I tell him only I can fish now and if nothing happens we can go home in another 30 minutes. There was nothing working anymore in this area and I noticed the first hole I wanted to cover now had no anglers.
We went back to the first hole as the other angler left. After 20 minutes and I suggested said we could go home but he said no keep trying. I am glad I did as a made a drift in the middle of the flow and I thought I had a hit. Confirmation came when all there was left was the tail. I put on a fresh red female shrimp. Watched the drift closely and kept up to the slack line. The float tapping the odd time to indicate I was touching the bottom. The bobber went down and I struck. Adam yells as he see this beautiful silver do come out of the water do a fantastic aerial display. Great fight from a nice hatchery doe and that meant we both caught our limit after I landed it. 10:30am and we are hiking back to the Jeep to go home.
What a special day to share with my son. Cooked one tonight and it was a special meal, special day, and special adventure
I arrived to find two vehicles already parked off to the side of the road. It’s a big river and lots of fishing holes for the opportunity. I didn’t see any of them. I decide to go up the river and still no sign of any angler. Using the 10mm Steelybead pegged 1-1 ½ inch above the Ghost shrimp. I started short floating and then increasing the length every six-inch longer after each drift. I finally got the length that the float indicated I was tapping the bottom. I tagged a rock a few time but easy release. On the last drift at the end of the drift, the float slowly slid under. I made the line taught and nothing indicating a steelhead strike. It felt like it was stuck on the bottom and then with a couple of tugs released itself. After bringing the float in the ghost shrimp was gone and the bead was resting on the hook. I put another ghost shrimp on and reposition the bead about 1 ½ above the shrimp. And this time as my float approached the same area I stopped the drift and allow the float to drag. Again it went down slowly but this time I had more tension and did a soft strike. Nothing was there. As I brought back the gear I discovered half the ghost shrimp was missing. I have seen this before and the past. So with past success, I kept the remaining shrimp part on. With the lower section oozing away with guts I straighten out the tail section and tossed again. As the float reaches the area I was all tensed and as the float again started to slowly go down I did a full force strike nearly taking me off my feet. Out comes this huge hatchery buck. Lots of displaying jumps and then he took off down the river. I had to make a quick decision before he reached the rapids. I dropped my rod tip deep and to the side in the river. This allowed the line to bow down the river and I let a little line out. What occurs is the river flow created a downriver bow and the force makes the steelhead think he is being pulled down the river? Watching the line and as it starts to lessen in force which means the steelhead has started to move back up river I slowly start to retrieve picking up the bowline slowly. I can see the line is moving up the river so I complete making the line taught and the fight is back on. What a battle. I can see the hook at the edge of his mouth and I had to be as gentle as I could be. Finally landed him to the beach.
As I record his capture I see a steelhead move into position just in front of me. All excited and reset a new shrimp and position the bead. I was sure for the next battle. That didn’t happen. I did fifteen drifts that went by him touching him twice either the line or weight and he just moved a little. He just wasn’t interested in my offering. So I decided to cover other parts of the hole. Again as one of my drifts reached the end I retrieved half a shrimp. Again I throw the oozing part back out and slam in the same spot a beautiful chrome comes out. After a big battle, she is landed and it’s another hatchery. I decided to call it day and quit at 9 am.
There are a lot of products out there being sold to entice a fisherman to make a purchase that promises results in catching the elusive Steelhead. All sorts of hardware like spinners, spoons, wobblers, and artificial worms of many colours, artificial looking roe, and fly representations. The list just goes on. All those methods have been proven producers in catching steelhead.The most successful that’s not often allowed is natural bait. We have earthworms, the roe of many different salmonoid species. The salmon roe can be clustered, or used single, or in roe bags. The rare bait is the Ghost Shrimp. Not rare because they are few, rare because most avid fishermen know little of them. Where they can be found, how they can be caught, how to preserve them, how to keep them alive, and how to present them to steelhead. They are just as mysterious as the steelhead themselves. They are often called bugs or steelhead candy due to the fact that fish can’t resist them. Sandy beaches, estuaries, and muddy bays are a good place to look for them. They will be in the intertidal, especially middle intertidal range. They will not be located at the average high tide level of the beach area but usually within 2-4 foot drop from highest-level tide average. They love muddy sand and you can recognize their burrow entrances as they appear like small volcano’s.
Ghost Shrimp can be found most often on the sandy beaches of western British Columbia and the east coast of Vancouver Island all the way down to California. The best method is to pump them out of the sand with what is called a slurp pump or Ghost Shrimp pump when the sand is saturated with water. This allows the shrimp to be easily drawn out of the sand with the water and sand when you pump for them. Ghost shrimp burrows can be full of mazes and easily three feet in depth or deeper. My favorite time is just when the water comes off the burrows. The sand and burrows are soft and of course with the water being drawn out, sand and shrimp will flow with it. When the Ghost Shrimp pump is placed in the center of the burrow and then pushed in while the handle is being drawn up – this creates suction that will draw sand, water and shrimp. Sometimes two or three attempts are required. I have a bait box tied to my waist with a paper towel soaked in salt water that offers quick storage while I continue to pump more out of the sand. Remember to peruse the burrows that you dug up as the Ghost Shrimp will come out of their collapsed burrows or ones that are missed in the discarded sand piles will climb out. Of all the shrimp that I find, I don’t keep males, those that are to small, and females with eggs are put back under cover so the birds will not eat them. This allows the shrimp beds to continue to flourish. Once I collect what I need I rinse all the sand off them and store them in a clean plastic bucket on a bed of paper towel soaked in seawater with another paper towel over them – the bucket is then stored at the bottom of the fridge.
I use them the next day but if delayed you must remove all damaged or dying shrimps, as they will poison the rest with decay. Ghost shrimp can grow up to 4 1/2 inches but I favour using the small red females. The males are the largest and are white. Be careful of the large claw when handling them. The claw power is capable to apply a mean bite and can draw blood. When collecting them I will occasionally keep ten males with their large pinchers removed. In British Columbia the maximum you can have on you is 50 and you have to have a salt water fishing license. Now for steelhead larger does not mean better. I favor 2 “ 2 1/2 inches in length. These crustaceans actually belong to the crab family and are a delicacy to many types of fish in the ocean – salmon and steelhead included. Ghost Shrimp are often a favourite of surf casters fishing in California. Keeping them on the hook is the most challenging skill. Some will use spider wrap, rubber bands, egg loop knots, and sew the hook through the tail. They are very delicate and you can loose them easily on a cast. The best proven method for me is a very thin copper wire that I wrap around the tail of the shrimp together with the fishing line keeping it straight and firm with the hook that is embedded lightly through the thorax using a #4 Gamagatsu hook. Ghost Shrimp are great on their own but I will often fish a lil corky or bead sliding above the tail on the main line. The corky will hold the ghost shrimp above the bottom and the bead lets it sink faster. I will often lengthen my leader to the float long. I want to see the float indicate the weight is bouncing on the bottom. Often the hit is when I let the float swing in the current. Another event is when the float indicates my weight is touching the bottom I will lightly pick up the line and move the float to avoid hanging up on the bottom. This little action on the ghost shrimp also seems to induce a strike from the steelhead. This method though does create hang-ups and that is why I use 10 lb. or 12 lb. leaders for an easy break off. One of the most interesting thing that occurs is if I think I had a hit and upon retrieving my line I notice that the head of the shrimp is gone – that confirms it was a steelhead! I will immediately throw out the oozing tail that is left and often they will hit again.
Anglers are facing an increase of rivers that now have a bait ban and that includes scent. There are many artificial presentations from spoons, to jigs, to synthetic replicas’ of roe, worms, and minnows.
Beads are a popular way to catch salmon, trout, steelheads . This techniques originating from Alaska has become very popular especially for angler-facing restriction with bait bans that includes scent products.
I am open minded to any technique that works. Fishing with beads is a prime example. Using other forms of single synthetic soft roe, or corkies I could not understand what the hubbub was about beads. The beads can be produced in amazing various colours, they will sink and hug the bottom and they can be pegged in such a way as not to damage the leader.
The first decision when selecting a bead is to know what is currently spawning and matching the size of bead to their eggs. Salmons have been proven to have eggs in their stomach. They are not eating per say but trying to destroy there competitors eggs and have been observed mouthing the competitors eggs that drift by.
River condition is another factor, as heavy rains will diminish the clarity of the water you have to use a larger presentation so it becomes visible under silt conditions. The speed of the flow you’re fishing in is another factor that will affect the bite.
Early in the spawning season the roe (eggs) are vibrant in colour but as the season goes on they will eventually go a pale white (dead eggs). The contradiction is why other colours get positive responses. Salmon have been caught with purple, chartreuse green, blue, and yellow beads. There are many colour shades that anglers have had strikes on. Successful anglers will have a full range of colours on them to match the bite.
I find 8mm or 10mm beads is a good size for salmon. The beads are avaliable in 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. So the anglers will carry a full assortment of sizes and colours will have a higher per cent of success.
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If the bead rests on the eye of the hook the chances of the hook entering critical areas like gills or deep hook ups are very high. That becomes detrimental if you’re catching and releasing your target to survive another day. The technique is the have the bead an inch or two inch above the hook so when the salmon or steelhead picks up the bead the hook always set in the corner of the mouth.
There are many way anglers have tried to keep the bead in position above the hook. I find knots or loops are detrimental to the leaders strength. One can peg the bead with a toothpick but that also can weaken the line especially when adjusting the bead tighter to maintain position. Today we have synthetic pegs that are tapered and can maintain a pressure without weakening you leader.
This technique of bead fishing can be used bottom bouncing or with a float. I have found using a float allows more control visually monitoring your offering to the location of the flow you want to cover. Positive result can be near the bottom or in the middle of the water column (short floating). Also another positive technique is when the cast reach your target area, as it land on the flow pull back (retrieve) the float toward you a foot or two. This straightens the leader so it does not fold back on it self and gives a better presentation the to fish.
One of the most successful lures catching many species of fish all around the world has been the AP Tackleworks stainless steel spoon. As their success grew the development of their trolling lures the herring, the sandlance and the needlefish lures brought many successful smiles to angler all around the world.
Last year 2016 they made one prototype herring spoon for casting. Casting off the beaches for salmon is one of the most exciting techniques an angler can challenge himself or herself.
With only one to test out the pressure was on me. The outing we decided to test turned out perfect for weather condition, we found a school of coho salmon and the salmon could not resist it. I landed six coho with many miss hits.
This year 2017 AP Tackleworks is producing protoype variations of the lures needlefish, and sandlance spoons as casting lures.
Stay tune to this fall adventures as they will be tested on Chinook and Coho salmon casting off the east coast beaches of Vancouver Island.
East Vancouver Island launching at Brechin boat launch in Nanaimo
According to the bite chart the major is 06:05 am- 08:05 am and then 18:25 pm- 20:05 pm. Tides 5:56 , 9.8feet , 10:17 11.8 feet , 17:19 3.6 feet.
Forecast cloudy with sunny breaks and then showers in the afternoon. Winds 15km/h SE and gust 25 km/h . Temperature 7 c
Today I am testing out three types of lures from two manufactures. AP Tackleworks and Olympic Tackle. That have herring, anchovy and needle fish lures.
The lure will be attached to a flasher using a 11 inch Shooter flasher “Silver Metallic Betsy” I favor four foot to five-foot 25-pound test leaders .
Using the Amundson Outdoors Trend X5 Mooching Reel attached to Savvy Sumo Lieutenant mooching rod .
Even though the weather report indicated bad conditions to fish the wind changed from SE to a West and that made the East side of Vancouver Island the lea side. We saw calm water and decided to make the afternoon run. We finally had the lines in the water by 2PM and the first hit was within a couple of minutes. I had dropped my down rigger to 155 feet and Bobs was 140 feet deep. We had four down rigger clip releases with no fish . We decided to set the quick release clips harder and slowed the boat down to 2 MPH as we were going against the current. The next two hits were on the AP Tackle Herring spoon. Very exciting but they were under size. With the clouds starting to turn darker we could sense that our adventure might be limited. For the next hour and a half we hooked into four keepers biggest about 10 pounds. It was hectic and didn’t have a chance to change up the lures. AP Tackleworks Neon Army Truck spoon. By 5pm the wind started to shift to the SE and we decided to get off the water before the 25km/h gust start blowing. Good call as we landed the boat and all hell broke loose with huge whitecaps and deep swells on the open water.
Diffusion of fluid through a semipermeable membrane from a solution with a low solute concentration to a solution with a higher solute concentration until there is an equal solute concentration on both sides of the membrane.
What has this got to do with fishing? It’s the simple process of curing single salmon eggs. There are allot of recipes out there and many individual are confident that they work.
The most natural way to toughen up a salmon single eggs is to obtain them from a ripe hen( female ), store them in a bag with river water and mix it with some milt from the male. Once the eggs have been fertilized the membrane will change. You literally can throw those eggs against a wall and watch them bounce. They will collapse if you puncture them but for handling and making roe bags this is natures best recipe. This opportunity doesn’t present itself often.
Next option if a male is not available is to store the single eggs in river water. I always carry a large zip lock with me for these purposes. Then cure them at home.
Another source of single eggs is to remove them from a skein that is close to separating. This is a process that will test your patience. With the skein up and eggs down on a smooth surface. I like to use parchment paper. You gently use a spoon on the edge of the skein and draw forward and pull the eggs off the skein. I then soak them in river water, which I have bought home for an hour. You will find the eggs soft and also partially collapse but not punctured.
Still another option is to purchase salmon roe. I got some VHS free Chinook single eggs from Centerpin angling and when they came they were in a vacuum-sealed bag. They choose to cure and somewhat dehydrate the egg during its process with added stickiness, soft form, and able to storage for years. Giving the customer’s the option, and when ready to use, to fish the eggs “as is”. Tying loose and naturally milking out scent and simultaneously naturally hydrate on the drift. Or even have the option to re-hydrate the eggs themselves with their own personal way, recipe, re-scent etc.(Not recommended)
With our big rivers on the west coast of British Columbia we like our single eggs for our roe sacs firm and bouncy as we cast hard and for long distances. If you want them to be firm this is when Osmosis will be your best friend.
Create brine that is at its maximum salinity. You want to see a 1/8 if an inch of salt still on the bottom of the jar. Gently place the singles eggs in the brine. They will separate if stuck together. This is when the magic begins. In the next 24 hours they will swell (rehydrate) and the membrane of the egg will toughen up. They will literally be able to bounce off the floor when the Osmosis process if over. I like to keep the process natural others like to add colour. I personally would rather change the colour of the netting.
Do not throw out the brine. When you have left over roe bags just put them back into the brine and back into the fridge. Remember oxygen is the enemy of eggs. So keeps the jar full of fluid and airtight. I have stored single eggs for years in an airtight canning jar removing as much air as you can.
AP Tackleworks trolling lures. Testing out a new Herring version.
Quote: The AP Sandlance Spoon has now been fished all throughout the West Coast of North America from Alaska to California and all the way to Russia, New Zealand, Scandinavia and Japan, all with great results. Although the lures were originally designed to target Chinook salmon on the sandy bottoms of the Salish Sea, they have proven effective on Coho salmon, halibut, lingcod, large fresh water trout and many other species. The lures perform great when trolled extremely close to bottom where Pacific Sand Lance are found and are also very effective higher up in the water column.
The same design principles were incorporated into two new spoons: The AP Anchovy Spoon and the AP Herring Spoon. Both share the life-like swimming action of the AP Sandlance Spoon, yet with the body shapes of anchovy and Pacific herring respectively.
Organization is imperative. That is why Rigrap is a must. To be able to select fast, keep the leaders from tangling up and maintain the wear and tear of the lures. This leaves more time fishing and with less tangles and or tying up.
I use the Swarm flasher as a dummy set up. With three blades you have a total of 8 flashing surfaces to attract the salmon. With the slim profile of the blades it reduces the cautiousness the wary salmon have.